Tasting The Legend: Dal Forno Romano

Mad Wine
Tasting the Legends It's not often that you get to cross a dream wine off your tasting wish list. It's even less often that you get to cross off three in one night. And it's the rarest of rare occasions that all the wines are from the same producer. That night was Wednesday and winery was the incomparable Dal Forno Romano. Hailing from the Veneto in Italy, Dal Forno Romano wines demand that you totally recalibrate your perception of Valpolicella. The wines are painstakingly made through minuscule yields and a perfectionist's mindset. Massively rich, concentrated, and yet somehow not over-the-top, these Valpolicellas will cellar for many, many years. If you are going to drink them now, I would say two hours in the decanter would be a minimum. (And I wouldn't blame you if you drank them now; they are extremely difficult to resist.) If it wasn't enough to try two vintages of the Valpolicella, we were treated to the 2003 Dal Forno Romano Amarone. Whoa. What a wine! A little richer and denser that the Valpolicella, it had some of those lovely dried fruit characteristics that are the hallmark of Amarone. And like the Valpolicella, the Amarone is remarkable for its balance, especially considering the concentration and alcohol content. This wine doesn't just strive for perfection, it's knocking on the door. Just when I thought I would run out of superlatives, the wine of the night (for me) arrived: The 2003 Dal Forno Passito Vigna Sere. Like the Amarone, it's made with dried grapes, but it's sweet. To call it the finest sweet wine I've had doesn't seem to quite do it justice. I have to put it among the finest wines I've ever had, period. Having some blue cheese with it takes it into the stratosphere. I am loath to use words like "awesome" or "amazing" to describe anything because both words are so epidemically overused to be meaningless. ("That taco was awesome!" Awesome? Really? It inspired awe?) But if last night I heard any or all of these wines being described using either of those words, you'd probably notice me nodding my head in agreement and thinking, "Yes. Yes they are." Chris Zimmerman of Vias I'd be remiss if I didn't mention Chris Zimmerman from Vias, the company that imports Dal Forno Romano and many other excellent Italian wines. Chris led us through a "Visions of the Veneto" seminar that proved his knowledge of Italian wines is only matched by his passion for them. And I'd be truly remiss if I didn't mention the lineup of wines before the Dal Forno Romano, which were very impressive. We started with two Suavia Soaves, the unoaked 2008 Montecarbonare and the barrel-aged 2006 Le Rive. Fans of Chablis and White Burgundy, respectively, need to get a hold of these gems. And the Le Salette Amarones that followed were outstanding; made in a very refined style appropriate for the dinner table. So what wines are on your wish list or which ones have you crossed off? Follow Esquin on Twitter