Like Dal Forno Romano, the wines of Quintarelli will change your notions of the heights that great Valpolicella can reach. And, to my pleasant surprise, Quintarelli also makes a hell of a white wine. The Secco Ca' del Merlo is an unusual blend: Garganega, Trebbiano, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Saorin. (I have no idea what Saorin is.) Aromatic, medium-bodied, silky-textured, and refreshing as a mountain stream, it was pretty damn incredible with some Thai food we had delivered to the home of Esquin's Wine Jedi, Arnie Milan. (I'm Luke to his Obi-Wan. Though I'd prefer to think of myself as more Han or Boba Fett. But I digress.) And though I really love stylized wine labels, there is something really charming about Quintarelli's scripted label. I love the unique look of his writing; I wish my chicken-scratch penmanship could hold a candle to it. Can someone please turn it into a font? 2007 Quintarelli Secco Ca' de Merlo: $52