Climate Change- stamping is mark upon the global wine industry

Staff Account
Created by Arnie Millan

 

Here is a recent update on the most recent effects of climate change in France and Germany

Germany, July 13, 2021:

Catastrophic floods devastated the Ahr region, famous for its Pinot Noir. Most of Germany’s flood deaths and flood devastation occurred in the Ahrweiler district (In the center of the Ahr River Valley). Of an estimated 180 deaths in Germany, at least 112 occurred in the Ahrweiler, as of July 20th*.

According to the German Wine Institute (DWI), “The economic devastation that accompanied the floods was particularly hard felt by the region’s more than 38 wineries, many of whom lost their facilities, cellars, machinery, wine barrels, cellared inventory and more, destroying entire wine-producing businesses and livelihoods. It will likely take weeks to quantify the number of wine-growing businesses affected as well as the severity and extent to which the disaster will affect the entire Ahr region and its 563 hectares of vineyards.1

Why was the severity of the flooding attributed to climate change? The flooding was the worst in at least 100 years and maybe in recorded history. “For years, scientists have warned climate change will mean more flooding in Europe and elsewhere. Warmer air holds more moisture, which can translate into heavier rainfall. A warming climate that can supercharge rainstorms and European disaster plans that focused on major rivers, rather than the lower volume tributaries hit hardest by the storms2.” The July storms arrived seemingly suddenly catching most victims by surprise, dumping 6” of rain in 24 hours.

 

France, April 5, 2021

An early frost has destroyed an estimated 30% of the 2021 harvest was lost. In Northern Burgundy, losses have been as high as 80%. Still, prices are not expected to rise much, if at all, because of reduced worldwide demand due to the ripple effects of the COVID virus.

“With temperatures in early April as low as 22°F, and following an unseasonably warm March, this year’s frost damage may be the worst in history for French winegrowers. Every corner of France reports considerable losses, from Champagne to Provence, and Côtes de Gascogne to Alsace. As a result, there will likely be very little French wine from the 2021 vintage reaching U.S. shores. In fact, “this year’s frost damage may be the worst in history for French winegrowers.3

How has global warming contributed to frost damage in April? March (and February, too) was unusually warm. The growth cycle in the vines sped up leading to an early budbreak. “At the time these frosts hit, the buds had already burst,” says Friederike Otto, associate director of the University of Oxford's Environmental Change Institute. “And so the frost did damage the vegetation quite a lot.4

According to Euronews, “The result was an estimated €2 billion in economic damage described by French officials as ‘probably the greatest agricultural catastrophe of the beginning of the 21st century.4’”

France, 2021

In 2018, The National Institute of Appellations of Origin (INAO) considered changes to the appellation rules for the large Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur appellations (AOC). For years, growers in Bordeaux have petitioned both their local Commission d’Agreements and the INAO to allow the planting of new varieties better suited to warmer climates. Finally, on March 22, 2021, the INAO announced an major change in the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs formalized on March 30 with the publication of the official Cahiers des Charges6 or AOC rules.

“One particularly newsworthy approach to adapting to warmer climates is the region’s recent authorization of new grape varieties allowed within Bordeaux AOC. Concerns like the quick ripening of core Bordeaux varieties like Merlot have urged the region to approve these new plants, and allow growers to plant a range of grape varieties for their blends that have different ripening periods spread over time. There have been several criteria for expanding the authorized varieties while still keeping an eye to preserving the typicity of the fruit quality and finished wines.

The seven varieties recently approved for planting in Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC are red varieties Arinarnoa, Castets, Marselan, and Touriga Nacional, and white varieties Alvarinho, Liliorila, and Petit Manseng. These varieties have been chosen specifically to give winegrowers more options when adapting to climate change, but they’re limited to 5% of the planted vineyard area, and they cannot constitute more than 10% of the final blend. Also, keeping with the legal regulations for labeling, wineries may not list these varieties on their wine labels.5

 

  1. German Wine Institute, “The Terrible Flooding in Germany’s Ahr Wine Region and Help for its Wineries,” July 20, 2021
  2. Science, Warren Cornwall, “Europe’s deadly floods leave scientists stunned,” July 20, 2021
  3. Beverage Industry Enthusiast, Nils Bernstein, “French Winemakers Try to Save 2021 Vintage From Late Frost” April 12, 2021
  4. Euronews, “Climate change 'a factor' in frost that decimated France's vineyards, say scientists,” June 15, 2021
  5. Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux (CIVB) or Bordeaux Wine Council, “How Bordeaux is Adapting to Climate Change” May 6, 2020 
  1. INAO “Cahiers des Charges” Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur, March 30, 2021

**Picture was taken by Arnie Millan in Bernkstel on the Mosel on April 1, 2011.  Ernie Loosen is pointing out the marker from a historic flood on the 2nd floor from 1784.**

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Finding Good Deals in Pinot Noir Burgundy

Staff Account

Created by Arnie Millan

Burgundy prices have skyrocketed over the past 10 years due to the reputation of top Burgundy as one of the world’s greatest wines, resulting high demand, low production/scarcity and a succession of excellent, if not great, vintages.

Burgundy is the birthplace the planet‘s finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It all comes at a great cost, however. Today associating the word “value” with Burgundy is becoming an oxymoron. Excellent village level Pinot Noir was $30-$40/bottle in 2014; now it’s $70-$100!

So where do you look for value? Happily, there is a rich hunting ground at the basic communal or Bourgogne Rouge level. The fruit sources for these wines can come from anywhere in the greater Burgundy region. There are also great finds in Bourgogne (Burgundy) Hautes- Côtes (upper slopes) de Beaune or Hautes- Côtes de Nuits.

The Hautes Côtes or upper hillsides are planted at higher altitudes than their famous cousins below. It’s cooler here than in the famous appellations below with cooling winds rolling down from the top of the slope where there is forest. In the past, this region had – and still has - a reputation for Cassis and sparkling Crémant de Bourgogne. Pinot Noir is also planted throughout the Hautes Côtes. Shrewd buyers know that these Pinots can be terrific bargains in warm vintages and they have been blessed with a succession of warm vintages recently from 2014 to 2020.

Chitry is located immediately South of Chablis, in the cooler Northern climate of the Auxerre. Like the Hautes Côtes, these Pinots can offer killer values in warm vintages.

These Pinot Noirs shine and hold their own against more expensive Oregon and California Pinots. Check these recommendations out below:

Domaine du Prieuré 2018 Hautes Côtes de Beaune Rouge $21.99/bottle or $20.89/bottle by the case
Beautiful strawberry to cherry color. Aromas of tobacco leaf spice and hints of clove, nutmeg, anise, cherry and strawberry. I was not prepared for my first sip – I expected a much lighter wine but its first impression was intense. It was a “wow” moment. The Prieuré is prodigious and expansive with bright strawberry and raspberry fruit. Lots of mineral and fresh acidity pulls the whole thing together. This Burgundy has exceptional balance and is a killer value.
91 points Arnie Millan

 

Giraudon 2019 Bourgogne Chitry $21.99/bottle or $20.89/bottle by the case
Vibrant, lively raspberry and strawberry fruit washes effortlessly over the palate with highly discreet tannins leading the way from the mid-palate on to the finish. We were impressed by how well it trumpeted its presence on the first sip. This wine is all about rich fruit, minerality, and refreshing acidity. The 2019 Chitry carries its 14.1% alcohol with aplomb, just like its neighbors to the South. We just loved this wine! It’s a terrific bargain for Burgundy.
92 Arnie points

 

Beautiful ruby color, The Potel boasts aromas of pepper/tobacco leaf spice and dried herbs along with red and black berries. Lively fruits wash over the palate like raspberry, strawberry fruit and pomegranate. The fruit becomes darker as the mid-palate fills out. The Potel is medium-bodied but tastes rich in spite of its 12.5% alcohol. The tannins are soft, almost caressing, leading to a delightful, dry finish.
This Burgundy is made from parcels in the villages of Santenay, Pommard, Volnay, Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanée (80%) as well as declassified village appellations of Auxey-Duresses and Maranges (20%). Getting fruit of this pedigree for $21.99 is a nearly unheard-of accomplishment.
90-91 Arnie points

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Cadence Winery...Our March Winery of the Month!

Alisha Gosline
 Cadence makes wine that speaks of place; of elegance and power, perfume and structure in combinations only possible from three world class vineyards on Red Mountain: Ciel du Cheval, Taptiel and its own estate Cara Mia Vineyard.

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8 Of Our Favorite Rose Wines Under $25

Mad Wine
These pinks are easy going down and easy on the wallet. When it comes to warm-weather drinking, rose is the new go-to. In 2015, the volume of rose sales was up more than 44% year over year. With rose being such a popular wine we thought we’d give you our recommendations for some amazing rose that won’t break the bank. These rose wines vary in hue from a pale blush too vibrant salmon, from the Provence region of France to Horse Heaven Hills in Washington.
  1. Baron De Funes Rosado 2017: Made from 100% Garnacha, this is a lean pink wine loaded with cut strawberry and fresh mint accents. For under $10, this wine is a tasty, screaming deal. https://madwine.com/rose/92761-baron-de-funes-rosado-2017.html $6.99
  2. Regaleali Rosato 2017: Thousands of roses, brought in from all over the world, thrive on the Regaleali estate. The name of this wine has changed to reflect these incredible flowers. Unchanged, however, are the Nerello Mascalese grapes which give Le Rose di Regaleali its class and elegant fragrance. Deep salmon-pink in color, offers delicate aromas of cherry, raspberry, blackberry, and-appropriate to its name-rose petals. Rich on the palate with refreshing acidity and a long, flavorful finish, this is what Sicilians enjoy in the summertime. Perfect for tuna, salmon, poultry, pork, and flavorful pasta dishes, this wine is universally food-friendly. https://madwine.com/rose/92801-regaleali-rosato-2017.html $9.99
  3. Michel Lynch Rose 2017: Candy pink in color, this is a soft wine. Its caramel and spice are balanced with the red-currant fruits to give an easy, open wine that is ready to drink. https://madwine.com/rose/92794-michel-lynch-rose-2017.html $10.99
  4. Librandi Circo Rosato 2017: The vineyards that dot the countryside of the small town of Ciro Marina overlook the Ionian Sea and benefit from cool ocean breezes, thus producing grapes with spicy and floral aromas. Ciro Rosato is made from 100% Gaglioppo, Calabria's signature variety, selectively harvested in late September into early October. https://madwine.com/rose/92791-librandi-ciirco-rose-2017.html $11.99
  5. Commanderie de la Bargemone Coteaux D’Aix en Provence Rose 2017: Bargemone is among the foremost estates of the Coteaux d'Aix appellation of Provence. A benchmark producer of the delicious, dry rose for which Provence is famous. Offers classic aromas of wild strawberries and red currants, with a light, floral character and a crisp, bone dry palate. https://madwine.com/rose/86770-commanderie-de-la-bargemone-coteaux-d-aix-en-provence-rose-aoc-2016.html $14.99
  6. AIX Rose 2017: This is a smooth, beautifully ripe wine. It is well balanced, with crisp red and orange fruits adding a refreshing background to the spice and acidity. This finely made wine is ready to drink. https://madwine.com/rose/91742-aix-rose-2016.html $17.99
  7. Whispering Angel Rose 2017: The Rose that put Provence on the map! Very French in style, loads of minerality, light peach, fresh strawberries, and a hint of rosewater. The bright acid makes this the perfect rose to pair with grilled Sea Scallops wrapped in fresh watermelon. Perfect for that patio dinner. 91 POINTS DECANTER. https://madwine.com/rose/92798-whispering-angel-rose-2017.html $19.99
  8. Julia’s Dazzle Rose 2016: Though the highest price on this list, this unique Rose of Pinot Gris is named after Allen's granddaughter, Julia, and is sourced from a special block from The Benches Vineyard at Wallula in Horse Heaven Hills. The grapes were left to hang until they developed a bright tint, then gently pressed and the clarified juice slowly fermented at cool temperatures to retain the wine's intensely vibrant aromatics and flavors. Fresh and lively with bright aromas and flavors of ripe strawberries and melon complimented by a racy acidity that lingers across a clean, off dry finish. https://madwine.com/rose/90492-julia-s-dazzle-rose-2016.html $22.99

Cheers!

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National Hot Dog Day

Mad Wine
You might think wine and hot dogs make an odd pairing, but since we love wine and hot dogs, we're sure this is a winning combination. We're here to help you pair your favorite hot dog with our favorite wines. These wine pairings go well beyond just National Hot Dog Day, these would work for any summer BBQ as well! Hot dogs and sausages come in lots of varieties, but one thing they have in common is that they are salty and hearty, so they need a wine with acid. Many wines could work but stick to wines with acidity and a touch of sweetness. Our choices: Rosé, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, and Grenache. Starting with the Rosé: WINE: AIX Rose 2017 VARIETAL: Blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, and Counoise TASTING NOTES: This is a smooth, beautifully ripe wine. It is well balanced, with crisp red and orange fruits adding a refreshing background to the spice and acidity. This finely made wine is ready to drink. PAIRING NOTES: For hot dogs, you want a wine that has acid to cut through the fat and minerality to enhance the salty, savory flavors in the meat. Its fruitiness will pair well with the sweetness in ketchup. It’s also low in alcohol with virtually no tannins, so you can load up your dogs with spicy mustard or peppers and the wine won’t exacerbate the heat. MadWine PRICE: $17.99 WINE: Lone Birch Pinot Gris 2016 VARIETAL: 100% Pinot Gris TASTING NOTES: From 100% Estate Grown fruit, an enticing bouquet of tropical fruit leads to a well balanced, medium bodied mouthfeel with luscious flavors of pineapple, pear, and white peach. PAIRING NOTES: If your hot dog is spicy, smokey and grilled with spicy toppings, Pinot Gris is the perfect match because it tames the heat of jalapenos and makes the saltiness of any sausage disappear. While Pinot Gris is made from the same grape as Pinot Grigio, it's made in a more full-bodied, and ripe style that's heavy on the palate and cuts through the decadence of sausage to leave your palate refreshed and grease-free. MadWine PRICE: $9.99 WINE: Foris 'Rogue Valley' Pinot Noir 2016 VARIETAL: 100% Pinot Noir TASTING NOTES: Foris, organic producers since the early 1970's brand new vintage of Pinot Noir is fabulous. Soft and supple with layers of Bing cherry fruit, and has nuances of cedar and earth with super smooth tannins. PAIRING NOTES: Pinot noir creates a great contrast for hot dogs that are smoked with a traditional soft white bun with chili on top. This combination while odd, combines the earthy flavors, fruit notes, and hints of spice that match those found in the hot dog. MadWine PRICE: $13.99 WINE: Evodia Garnacha 2015 VARIETAL: Grenache TASTING NOTES: A great value Garnacha with notes of blackberries, black pepper and mocha and a long lingering finish. PAIRING NOTES: If your hot dog is steamed, grilled and served in a steamed bun topped with relish, mustard, ketchup and chopped raw onion, this is the wine to pair with. Grenache makes a great hot dog pairing because it is medium-bodied and low in tannin. This wine brings out the tang of condiments while cleansing the palate. MadWine PRICE: $9.99 So with that, Happy National Hot Dog Day and go out and buy some hot dogs and order some wine today!

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Hungary Royal Tokaji

Mad Wine
The other week, a small group of wine pros met at Wild Ginger to taste through an exquisite line-up of Hungary’ Royal Tokaji. Tokaji (formerly Tokay) is one of the world’s greatest dessert wines and our tasting more than lived up to expectations! Our guide was Kimberly Bowden, CSW, CSS (those initials mean she knows her topic) from Wilson Daniels, the importer of Royal Tokaji. Tokaji’s wines were renowned throughout Europe - among nobility, Czars, and clergy - 400 to 500 years ago. Tokaji was also the first wine region in Europe to be classified.in 1700. Prince Rakoczi initiated the world’s first classification of a wine region by Great First Growth, First Growth, Second Growth and Third Growth. There are 3 grape varieties permitted in production of Tokaji:
  • Furmint, 70% of plantings, very high levels of tartaric acid, very susceptible to Botrytis
  • Hárslevelú, 25% of plantings, rich in sugars and aromas
  • Muscat de Lunel, 5% of plantings, difficult to grow but important seasoning
The Tisza and Bodrogm rivers create a mist similar to the fog in Sauternes, which encourages development of botrytis cinerea and potentially, noble rot, under the right conditions. Royal Tokaji uses indigenous yeasts and grapes, traditional winemaking methods and ages wines in a 13th century underground cellar. They hand-harvest non-Botrytis bunches to ferment into dry base wine in stainless steel. About three weeks later, they hand-harvest harvest shriveled aszú berries berry by berry then grind the berries into a paste and add it to the partially fermented base wine. After stirring for two or more days, the wine is transferred to gönci, 140-liter or 37-gallon barrels and moved to the 13th century cellar for the second fermentation which may take a few months to a few years due to high sugar levels and cool cellars. The wine is so rare because each vine yields one glass of wine. Royal Tokaji is one of the region’s elite producers with holdings in all of the region’s top crus. It was founded by British wine authority Hugh Johnson, among other investors, in 1990 after the fall of communism. We were lucky to taste these rare wines. They are sensational and complex with notes of blood orange, citrus peel. As the Wine Advocate’s Neal Martin writes, “The delineation is astonishing on the nose, unfurling with entrancing scents of orange blossom, freshly sliced apricots, almond, and quince – all beautifully focused.” I might add, on the palate, stewed mandarin orange, honey, and quince. In addition to sweeter wines, we tasted a terrific, crisp dry Furmint and an elegant, mildly sweet late harvest Tokaji.

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Stoller Vineyards

Mad Wine
Stoller at Sunset Photo credit Lenny Rede
The Stoller's established the property in 1943 and the vineyard fifty years later. Using 100% estate fruit, they control every step of the process, from pruning to bottling and everything in between. The result is award-winning wines that are balanced, complex, and consistently exceptional. These are some of our favorite Oregon wines. What Melissa does is consistently create balanced wines that show off a purity of fruit and finesse too often lacking in today's wine world.
Stoller Rose Photo credit Lenny Rede
"I strive to make wine that exemplifies the uniqueness of the vineyard and reflect the vintage with balance and elegance. Our Pinot Noir characteristically expresses a combination of red to darker fruits, spice, and fine-grain tannins. The volcanic soil, elevation, exposure, and weather of our Dundee Hills site all combine to create the perfect conditions for growing cool-climate wine grapes." - Melissa Burr Melissa Burr was raised in the Willamette Valley. After completing her Bachelor of Science degree, Melissa intended to practice naturopathic medicine before discovering her true passion was in wine. She studied winemaking and fermentation science at OSU and interned during harvest for several local wineries before becoming production winemaker for Cooper Mountain. In 2003, Melissa joined Stoller Family Estate as the winery’s first dedicated winemaker. In her 14-year tenor with Stoller, Melissa has worked in concert with the vineyard team to oversee the site’s continued refinement. She has helped grow production from 1,000 cases to 60,000 while acting as a steward of Stoller’s legacy. I recently visited the winery and was as usual blown away by the wines! Visit them if you get the chance, and tell them Lenny sent you. if you can't here is a little video of what you are missing. #OregonWineMonth

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Master Sommelier Larry Stone and Lingua Franca Wines

Mad Wine
lin·gua fran·ca noun: “a language that is adopted as a common language between speakers whose native languages are different.”
Lingua Franca Vineyard LSV
The headline for this article could read: “Local Boy Does Good!” Larry Stone is one of the most influential people in the wine industry. (Period). One of the first Americans to pass the Master Sommelier exam (#9 in 1988), the only American ever to win France’s Grand Prix de Sopexa competition (better known as the “Best Sommelier in the World”). Wine director for Charlie Trotters. Founder (With Robert De Niro and Robin Williams) of the legendary Rubicon in San Francisco. Dean of Wine Studies at the International Culinary Center. In 2006, he left the restaurant business to become the Gérant of the Niebaum-Coppola winery, now Inglenook. He worked with Augustine Huneeus at Quintessa, started his own Napa property Sirita and he also ran a négociant firm, Deux Chapeaux, with Daniel Johnnes. In 2010, Stone became president of Evening Land Vineyards, where he collaborated with Burgundian winemaker Dominique Lafon. Today, Evening Land is in the capable hands of Stone’s Protégé Rajat Parr. In 2012, Stone started a new winery next door – Lingua Franca.
Larry Stone tasting at Esquin
Stone brought together a team led by Dominique Lafon. Who is Burgundy's best-known winemaker, his name is attached to one of its most famous Domaines -Comte Lafon. The Comtes Lafon domaine, contains well over three hectares of premier cru vineyard as well a piece of burgundy's grand cru Le Montrachet. Lafon Montrachet sells for thousands of dollars a bottle. He has been rightly called “the Wizard of Burgundy.” He also brought on board winemaker Thomas Savre, who worked with stone and Lafon at Evening Land after working at luminary Burgundian properties as Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Domaine Dujac, and Maison Nicolas Potel. To manage the vineyards he brought on local viticulturist Mimi Casteel. Mimi is the daughter of Ted Casteel and Pat Dudley, co-founders of Bethel Heights Vineyard. She brings with her a lifetime of living and working in the valley and her families well known reputation for Sustainable and Biodynamic farming. Stone was in negotiations with Evening Land’s neighbors to purchase the land adjacent to the famed Seven Springs Vineyard, even before he left the project. After he left Evening Land the Janzen family approached him with a deal to buy the land. He sold his stake in Sirita Winery, auctioned off his personal wine collection and convinced a few friends to invest. They cleared the land - removing fruit and Christmas Trees – planted a vineyard and built a winery, designed by Lafon and Savre. Across the road from Seven Springs it is also adjacent Domaine Serene’s Jerusalem Hill Vineyard, Argyle Winery’s Lone Star Vineyard and Domaine Drouhin’s Roserock Vineyard. A perfect vineyard sight, a remarkably capable team and an astute understanding of the wine business. It is not surprising these wines are already creating a buzz. Lingua Franca is being poured at high-profile Paris restaurants Vitus, Taillevent and Spoon. Impressive for a new minted American Pinot Noir. The entire first vintage from Lingua Franca received 90 plus point scores from Wine Spectator! With The Tongue N’ Cheek making it in the Lingua Franca Avni Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills 2015 $36.99 btl Refined and precise, featuring a structure that's elegantly complex, with raspberry and cinnamon aromas and sleek cherry and mineral flavors. Drink now through 2022. 772 cases made. 92 Points Wine Spectator He told me, “We are not trying to make ‘burgundy’, although that is of course an influence. We are making wines of very little intervention, wines of place”. Stone describes it as “exploring Oregon with the mind of Burgundy.” The name Lingua Franca represents the concept of universal language, of bringing people of different worlds to common ground – shared conversation, shared enjoyment. Lingua franca could be described as a conversation between Oregon terroir and years of traditional Burgundian winemaking. If you were to make a list of what you would need to make a great wine, every box would be checked off on the list. Not bad for the son of refugees. His mother was a cheesemaker, and his father was a produce buyer at Seattle’s Pike Place Market. Stone was always enamored with food and even making his own wine at age 14. At the UW, Stone was a National Merit Scholar who studied abroad in Montpellier, France, and Vienna. He pursued a doctorate in comparative literature, earning a Fulbright Scholarship to University of Tübingen in Germany.He never finished his dissertation. He was one of Seattle’s very first Sommeliers’ at a restaurant called the Red Cabbage. Later working at the Four Seasons Olympic before heading to Chicago and Charlie Trotter’s. Local boy does good, and then some. By Lenny Rede
Leonard Redé is the marketing person here at Esquin Wine and Spirits. An instructor in the Wine Technology Program at South Seattle, he wrote the curriculum for the Associate of Arts Degree in Food and Wine Pairing Sommelier Studies. A classically trained chef and pastry chef he was nominated for educator of the year while Chef Instructor at the world renowned Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts. He garnered international attention at his award winning restaurant Sapphire kitchen and bar. A restaurateur, wine steward, chef and educator with over 30 years of industry experience he has a unique blend of culinary and wine expertise. He loves to share his passion for all things gastronomic and he’ll gladly help you navigate the world of wine and is always quick with a wine pairing or recipe.

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Arnie's Lunch with a Burgundy Legend

Mad Wine
It’s not every day that you get to sit down and break bread with a legendary Burgundy producer. Yet that is precisely what happened when I was invited to lunch recently with Laurent Drouhin of Burgundy’s renowned Maison Joseph Drouhin at Seattle’s Virginia Inn by Pike Place Market. Founded in Beaune in 1880, Maison Joseph Drouhin's cellars have spread from the historical Cellars of the Dukes of Burgundy and the Kings of France in Beaune (12th-18th centuries) to the Moulin de Vaudon, an 18th Century watermill in Chablis. The Joseph Drouhin Domaine was assembled parcel by parcel over the years and comprises today 73 hectares (182.5 acres) of vineyards in Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune, Côte Chalonnaise and Chablis. It is one of the most important domains in Burgundy, with more than two thirds of the vineyards classified as Premier and Grand Crus. Laurent Drouhin who, along with his sister Véronique and brothers Frédéric and Philippe, are the latest fourth generation to run the venerable grower and negociant house in the village of Beaune. The Virginia Inn is a Pike Market institution offering classic French bistro fare so, naturally, I ordered the Boeuf Bourgignon. It arrived at a perfect time because we finished whites and were starting on the reds. It was old school and excellent! Laurent guided us through a tasting of 11 wines; 5 white and 6 red: White Wine 2015 Drouhin Vaudon Chablis $21.99 Nice mineral notes result from the region’s poor pebbly soils of Kimmeridgian limestone. Good value here. Fresh apple, lemon and stony flavors that play off the lively acidity. Stays juicy and long on the finish. 2015 Pouilly Vinzelles $19.99 “Clean and focused, this white evokes lemon, oak spice and mineral flavors. Has plenty of tension and builds to a long aftertaste of citrus and mineral.” 90 points Wine Spectator 2015 Chassagne-Montrachet $65.99 “Notes of petrol, resin and essence of pear and white peach can be found on the nicely layered nose. The rich, full-bodied and very generously proportioned medium weight flavors possess lovely mid-palate concentration while delivering good length on the relatively powerful finish. This is not especially complex at present though there is better aging potential here and this may surprise to the upside.” Burghound 2015 Meursault $55.99 “A ripe but classic nose of hazelnut and fresh white orchard fruit aromas is trimmed in a hint of matchstick. The rich, full and naturally sweet middle weight flavors also possess fine depth and length for a villages level wine. This is seductively delicious if a bit less energetic but richer and one that should repay 4 to 6 years of cellar time.” Burghound 2015 Drouhin Oregon Roserock Chardonnay $31.99 “Pale yellow-gold. Intense, mineral-inflected orchard and pit fruit, lavender and buttered toast aromas are complicated by oyster shell, fennel and vanilla nuances. Concentrated yet nervy and light on its feet, offering palate-staining, oak-kissed pear nectar, Meyer lemon and candied ginger flavors underscored by a vein of smoky minerality. Shows superb energy and power on the floral-tinged finish, which hangs on with serious, mineral-driven tenacity.” Josh Raynolds, Vinous Red Wines 2015 Chorey-lès-Beaume $27.99 “Bright, full red. Cool aromas of cherry, licorice and menthol. Juicy red berry flavors are accented by a hint of licorice. The tannins are firm but not dry, with the persistent finish displaying attractive perfumed lift. This makes the Rully seem a bit rustic by comparison.” Stephan Tanzer, Vinous 2015 Savigny-lès-Beaune $37.99 This is Chorey’s more muscular brother with richer, darker fruit. Laurent said that they declassify some premier crus here, as they do with other village appellations. 18 months in French oak barriques. 2015 Gevrey Chambertin $61.99 “Captivating aromas and flavors of pure cherry, mineral, tobacco and spice mark this supple red. Beautifully balanced, this remains long on the finish, driven by succulent acidity. Best from 2020 through 2033.” Wine Spectator 2011 Beaune Clos de Mouches 1er Cru $114.99 The 2011 Beaune Clos des Mouches impresses for its intensity. Green pears, exotic flowers, mint, citrus and crushed rocks are all very much alive in the glass. The flavors are beautifully defined in a salivating, crystalline wine full of personality. Clos des Mouches remains one of the undiscovered jewels of Burgundy in its price range. The 2011 is likely to enjoy broad drinking window that will last several decades. Antonio Galloni, Vinous 2015 Drouhin Oregon Roserock Zéphirine Pinot Noir $31.99 “Brilliant red. Vibrant, spice-accented red fruit liqueur, floral pastille and incense aromas, along with an intense mineral topnote. Stains the palate with sweet raspberry and spicecake flavors that show impressive depth as well as delicacy and nervy cut. Silky, seamless and precise, finishing with outstanding energy and velvety, slow-building tannins that harmonize smoothly with the deep fruit.” Josh Raynolds, Vinous Arnie Millan is Esquin's European Buyer and Resident Expert on all things Burgundy.

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The Man they call Bubbles by Lenny Rede

Mad Wine

When talking about South African wine there is always one name that comes up – Graham Beck. It all started in 1983 when the entrepreneur Graham Beck bought the farm Madeba close to Robertson in order to produce wine and raise horses. They planted grapes in the limestone rich soil and in 1990 they hired Peter Ferreira as winemaker. Within a few years they were already garnering acclaim on the international wines scene. In 1994 Nelson Mandela enjoyed the Graham Beck Brut for his inauguration. Exactly 14 years later Barack Obama celebrates his presidential win with Graham Beck Brut.

Turns out those limestone soils in Robertson were perfect for growing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, perfect for making South Africa’ homage to Champagne – Cap Classique. Pieter says, “Chardonnay here in Robertson tends to be more forgiving, and more diverse – it’s different limestone than the limestone of Champagne. Robertson gives Graham Beck MCC its backbone of minerality.”

This remarkably gifted and passionate vintner has undoubtedly had a life-long love affair with all things bubbly. Affectionately known as “Mr Bubbles”,

eats, drinks and breathes bubbles! Pieter has been with the team from the very first vintage and has been instrumental in cementing Graham Beck as one of the world’s leading producers of premium Méthode Cap Classique style sparkling. Cap Classique is made in the method as Champagne, formally known as Methode method Champenoise.

I recently had the chance to sit down with Pieter and taste through his wines with him. What defines a truly outstanding Cap Classique? “It’s when you ask for that second bottle! A truly ‘world class’ Cap Classique is the result of favorable vintage conditions and reflects stricter fruit selection and the utmost care in the cellar in the pursuit of even greater excellence. That’s the academic response, but most importantly to us producers it’s the reaction from the consumer,” explains Pieter.

“Graham Beck Wines and the many other top local Cap Classique producers are proving that South Africa has got what it takes in the bubbly stakes. We’ve developed a uniquely home grown, ‘New World’ style, while remaining true to the essence, technique and tradition of fine fizz,” says Mr Bubbles.

This month we are featuring his Brut Rose. “The Graham Beck Brut Rosé has all the hallmarks of a traditional and carefully crafted bubbly, with the added appeal of being flirtatious and fun. Elegant and structured, it truly is a sparkling wine for all seasons. Made from the traditional Méthode Cap Classique base wines of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, its unique silver-pink hue is obtained by an enzymatic reaction during the transport of the Pinot Noir fruit to the cellar. The fine, lively mousse is brisk on the palate, showing hints of oyster shell, fresh lavender and subtle hints of berry and cherry.”

GRAHAM BECK BRUT ROSE NV

"Full bodied and loaded with pinot noir goodness in this toasty, zesty bubbly. Lovely cherry and strawberry notes and clean, crisp finish. Graham Beck is a master of sparkling wines, in my opinion, these are his best. Highly recommended." - Natalie MacLean

Tim Atkin Master of Wine 2017: 93 points

Brut Rosé NV 90 points Decanter

Brut Rosé NV 90 points International Wine Review

Brut Rosé 92 points, Tanzer

Brut NV 90 points, Robert Parker

Brut NV 90 points, Decanter

This is consistently one of the best sparkling wines in the market and at these prices? it is a no brainer!

Cheers! Lenny

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